DIY Sewing Pattern

 


Welcome! This is an incredibly practical and polished project that results in a versatile bag with a clean, structured design. It's perfect for carrying everything from daily essentials to market finds, with its spacious main compartment and handy outer pockets. This pattern is designed for an intermediate sewer who is comfortable with creating a multi-piece, structured bag.

Materials

  • Main Fabric: A heavy-duty, woven fabric like canvas, duck cloth, or twill (about 1 yard).

  • Handle/Contrasting Fabric: A contrasting, durable fabric for the handles and pocket flaps (about 1 yard of 1.5" wide webbing, or enough fabric to make your own handles).

  • Lining Fabric: A smooth, coordinating cotton or canvas (about 1 yard).

  • Fusible Interfacing: Heavy-weight fusible interfacing to give the bag a very firm structure (about 1 yard).

  • Thread: All-purpose thread that matches your fabric.

  • Snap or Button: A small snap, button, or hook-and-loop closure for the front pocket.

  • Tag or Label (Optional): A small fabric label or tag for a professional look.

  • Basic sewing supplies: Sewing machine, scissors, pins or clips, measuring tape, and an iron.


Key Concepts & Cutting Guide

This pattern is for a tote bag approximately 12 inches wide by 10 inches tall and 6 inches deep. The unique structure is created by the bottom gusset and side panels.

Cutting List:

  • Main Body (Outer Fabric): Cut one rectangle measuring 30" wide x 10" tall.

  • Lining Fabric: Cut one rectangle measuring 30" wide x 10" tall.

  • Interfacing: Cut one rectangle measuring 30" wide x 10" tall.

  • Side Panels (Outer Fabric): Cut two rectangles measuring 6" wide x 10" tall.

  • Side Panels (Lining Fabric): Cut two rectangles measuring 6" wide x 10" tall.

  • Side Panels (Interfacing): Cut two rectangles measuring 6" wide x 10" tall.

  • Side Pockets (Outer Fabric): Cut two rectangles measuring 6" wide x 8" tall.

  • Front Pocket (Outer Fabric): Cut one rectangle measuring 7" wide x 8" tall.

  • Pocket Flap (Outer Fabric): Cut one rectangle measuring 7" wide x 4" tall.

  • Handles: Cut two pieces of webbing, each 24" long.

Sewing Instructions

Note: Use a 1/2-inch seam allowance throughout the pattern unless otherwise noted.

Step 1: Prepare the Fabric and Cut the Pieces

  1. Press the heavy-weight interfacing onto the wrong side of your Main Body and Side Panel outer fabric pieces.

  2. If you are making your own handles, fold each Handle piece in half lengthwise and sew along the long edge. Turn them right side out and press them flat. Topstitch along both edges for a polished look.


Step 2: Create and Attach the Pockets

  1. Take your Front Pocket piece. Hem the top edge and press. Then, fold and press the side and bottom edges.

  2. Position the pocket at the center of the front of your main body piece. Pin it in place and sew along the pressed edges, leaving the top open.

  3. For the pocket flap, take your Pocket Flap piece. Round the bottom corners. Place it right sides together with a piece of lining fabric and sew around the sides and bottom, leaving the top open. Turn it right side out and topstitch. Sew the flap to the top of the pocket, and attach the snap or closure.

  4. For the Side Pockets, take your two pieces. Hem the top edge of each. Pin and sew them to the front of your side panels.


Step 3: Construct the Bag Body

  1. Take your main body piece (which now has the pockets and handles attached) and fold it in half, right sides together. Sew the side seams to form a tube.

  2. Take one of your side panels and pin it to the side opening of the main body, right sides together. Go slowly and use plenty of pins to get a smooth, even curve. Sew the side panel to the main body. Repeat for the other side panel.

  3. Repeat this entire process for the lining fabric, leaving a 4-inch opening in the bottom seam.

Step 4: Final Assembly

  1. Turn the main bag body right side out.

  2. Place the lining bag inside the main bag, with the wrong sides facing.

  3. Pin the lining to the top edge of the bag. You can either sew a single line of stitching around the top for a simple finish or hand-sew it down with a slip stitch.

  4. Reach into the opening you left in the bottom of the lining, and pull the bag through. Push out all the corners to create a sharp, structured shape.

  5. Hand-sew the opening in the lining closed with a slip stitch. Give the entire bag a final press with a cool iron to set the shape.

Your structured utility tote is now complete!

Video tutorial



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Turn a shirt into a blouse in 30 minutes

 

Welcome! This is an elegant and clever upcycling project that takes a simple button-down shirt and transforms it into a fashionable, custom-fit blouse. The design features a charming bow-tie neck and a classic cropped silhouette, making it a perfect statement piece. This pattern is designed for an experienced sewer who is comfortable with deconstructing garments, creating new patterns, and working with small details.

Materials

  • One Oversized Button-Down Shirt: A men's shirt or an oversized women's shirt made of a light to medium-weight cotton is perfect.

  • Thread: All-purpose thread that matches your fabric.

  • 1/4-inch Elastic: A small amount of elastic for the sleeve ruffle.

  • Basic sewing supplies: Sewing machine, scissors, pins or clips, a fabric pen or pencil, and a seam ripper.


Key Concepts & Deconstruction

The key to this project is to use the existing fabric panels of the shirt to create the new silhouette. The button placket becomes the central feature of the new blouse.

  • Deconstruction: You will use a seam ripper to carefully take apart the collar and the sleeves, preserving the main panels of the fabric.

  • Pattern Making: You will create new pieces for the tie and sleeves from the existing shirt fabric.

Sewing Instructions

Note: Use a 1/2-inch seam allowance throughout the pattern unless otherwise noted.

Step 1: Deconstruct the Shirt and Prepare the Body

  1. Lay the shirt flat. Using a seam ripper, carefully remove the collar and the sleeves. Save the sleeves for the new puffy sleeves.

  2. Now, you will reshape the neckline. Draw a curved line from the top of the button placket down to a V-shape at the center of the chest. This will be your new neckline. Cut along this line through both the front and back of the shirt.

  3. Finish the raw edge of the neckline by folding it under twice and sewing a narrow hem, or by using a zigzag stitch.


Step 2: Create and Attach the Bow Tie

  1. Take the fabric from the sleeve cuffs or the bottom of the shirt. Cut two long, straight strips, each about 20 inches long and 4 inches wide. These will be your tie pieces.

  2. Place one tie piece on top of the other, right sides together. Sew along the long edge and one short end to form a tube. Turn the tube right side out and press it flat. Repeat for the second tie piece.

  3. Find the center of the V-neckline you created on the front of the shirt. Pin the two tie pieces to the neckline, with the raw edges aligned. Sew them securely in place. You can sew a box with an "X" to reinforce the tie.


Step 3: Modify the Sleeves

  1. Take the sleeves you removed and shorten them to your desired length. A length that ends just below the elbow is a good choice. Cut the sleeve to your desired length, plus an extra 2 inches for the ruffle and seam allowance.

  2. Hem the bottom of each sleeve. Now, to create the ruffle, sew a line of gathering stitches about 1/2 inch from the bottom hem.

  3. Leave long thread tails and gently pull the bobbin threads to gather the fabric until it's about half the original width.

  4. You can also create a channel at the bottom of the sleeve and insert a small piece of elastic for a gathered, puffy look.


Step 4: Finish the Blouse

  1. Trim any excess fabric from the shirt body to create a cropped silhouette. A good length is a few inches below the waist.

  2. Hem the bottom of the blouse. You can fold the fabric under twice and sew a narrow hem for a clean finish.

  3. To give the blouse a more finished look, you can add a small button and a fabric loop to the front, similar to a shirt collar.

  4. Give the entire blouse a final press with a cool iron.

Your upcycled blouse with a bow tie is now complete!

Video tutorial



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DIY Recycling a Shirt

 

Welcome! This is an incredibly creative and transformative project that turns a simple button-down shirt into a stylish, custom-fit blouse with charming ruffles. It's a fantastic way to give an old garment new life and a completely different silhouette. This pattern is designed for an experienced sewer who is comfortable with upcycling, creating new patterns from existing garments, and working with ruffles.

Materials

  • One Oversized Button-Down Shirt: A men's shirt or an oversized women's shirt made of a light to medium-weight cotton is perfect. Gingham, a classic check, is ideal for this look.

  • Thread: All-purpose thread that matches your fabric.

  • 1/4-inch Elastic: A small amount of elastic for the sleeve ruffle.

  • Basic sewing supplies: Sewing machine, scissors, pins or clips, a fabric pen or pencil, and a seam ripper.


Key Concepts & Deconstruction

The key to this project is to strategically deconstruct the shirt and repurpose its existing panels. You will use the main body of the shirt for the new blouse body and the fabric from the sleeves or a back panel for the ruffles.

  • Deconstruction: You will use a seam ripper to carefully take apart the collar, the sleeves, and the shoulder seams.

  • Ruffles: Ruffles are created by gathering a strip of fabric to a shorter length. You will need a strip of fabric that is at least 1.5 to 2 times the length of the seam you are attaching it to.

Sewing Instructions

Note: Use a 1/2-inch seam allowance throughout the pattern unless otherwise noted.

Step 1: Deconstruct the Shirt and Prepare the Body

  1. Lay the shirt flat. Using a seam ripper, carefully remove the collar and the sleeves. Save the sleeves for the ruffles.

  2. Now, you will reshape the neckline. Draw a curved line from the top of the button placket down to a V-shape at the center of the chest. This will be your new neckline. Cut along this line through both the front and back of the shirt.

  3. On the back of the shirt, you will also create a new, lower neckline. You can also simply cut the shirt to be a V-neck in the back as well.

  4. Fold and press the raw edges of the neckline and the front placket to prepare for the ruffle.


Step 2: Create the Ruffles and Bow

  1. Take the sleeves you removed and cut them into long strips, about 4 inches wide. Sew the strips together end-to-end to create one very long strip.

  2. To create the ruffles, set your machine to a long stitch length. Sew two parallel lines of stitching, about 1/4 inch apart, along the entire length of the ruffle strip.

  3. Leave long thread tails and gently pull the bobbin threads to gather the fabric. Continue gathering until the ruffle strip is the same length as the new neckline and front placket.

  4. For the bow, cut a strip of fabric about 18 inches long and 2 inches wide. Fold it, sew it into a tube, and turn it right side out.


Step 3: Attach the Ruffles and Modify the Sleeves

  1. Pin the gathered ruffle strip to the new neckline and front placket of the blouse. The ruffles should be facing inward.

  2. Sew the ruffle to the blouse body.

  3. Take the sleeves you saved and cut them to a new, shorter length.

  4. Hem the bottom of each sleeve. Now, cut a strip of fabric for the sleeve ruffle. Make it about 2 times the width of the sleeve opening. Create ruffles as you did before.

  5. Sew the sleeve ruffle to the bottom of each sleeve.

  6. You can also create a channel at the bottom of the sleeve ruffle and insert a small piece of elastic for a gathered, puffy look.


Step 4: Finish the Blouse

  1. To create the cropped silhouette, you can simply hem the bottom of the blouse.

  2. For a gathered waist, you can create a channel at the waistline and insert a piece of elastic or a drawstring.

  3. Pin the bow to the V-neckline you created in Step 1. Hand-sew or machine-sew it in place.

Your upcycled gingham blouse is now complete!

Video tutorial



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Upcycled Kids' Denim Jacket: A Detailed DIY Sewing Pattern

 

Welcome! This is a truly ambitious and rewarding project that transforms an old pair of jeans into a stylish, one-of-a-kind jacket for a child. The combination of sturdy denim with soft, comfortable knit fabric creates a unique and fashionable look. This pattern is designed for an experienced sewer who is comfortable with upcycling, creating patterns from existing garments, and working with different fabric types.

Materials

  • One Pair of Adult Jeans: The straight-leg or "mom" jean style is best, as it provides large, flat panels of fabric. The legs will be used for the jacket body.

  • One Old Sweatshirt: A hooded sweatshirt or a piece of knit fabric will work perfectly for the sleeves and hood.

  • Zipper: A separating zipper that is the correct length for the front of the jacket.

  • Thread: All-purpose thread that matches your denim and another that matches your knit fabric. A contrasting thread can be used for topstitching.

  • Basic sewing supplies: Sewing machine with a denim needle and a ballpoint needle, scissors, pins or clips, a fabric pen or pencil, and a seam ripper.

  • A Child's Jacket: An existing jacket that fits the child well. This will be your pattern guide.


Key Concepts & Pattern Making

The success of this project depends on careful deconstruction and pattern making. You'll be using the existing seams of the jeans to your advantage to save time and add a professional, ready-made look.

  • Deconstruction: You will use a seam ripper to carefully take apart the jeans and the sweatshirt, preserving the main panels of fabric.

  • Pattern Making: You will use an existing, well-fitting child's jacket as your pattern. Lay the jacket flat and trace the front, back, sleeve, and hood pieces onto paper to create your pattern guides. Don't forget to add a seam allowance!

Sewing Instructions

Note: Use a 1/2-inch seam allowance throughout the pattern unless otherwise noted.

Step 1: Deconstruct the Jeans and Sweatshirt

  1. Deconstruct the Jeans: Lay the jeans flat. Use a seam ripper to open the inseams and the crotch seam of both legs. This will give you two large, flat panels of denim. You can also carefully remove the back pockets if you want to reuse them.

  2. Deconstruct the Sweatshirt: Carefully cut the sleeves and the hood off the main body of the sweatshirt. If it's a pullover, you'll need to cut it down the front to create an opening for the zipper.


Step 2: Cut the Jacket Panels

  1. Cut the Denim Body: Place your front and back pattern pieces on the flat denim panels. The side seams of the jeans can be a great feature to include in your design. Pin the patterns in place and cut out the front and back body panels. You'll have two front panels (right and left) and one back panel.

  2. Cut the Knit Hood and Sleeves: Place your hood and sleeve patterns on the flat sweatshirt fabric. Pin and cut out two hood pieces and two sleeve pieces.

Step 3: Construct the Jacket Body

  1. Take your two denim front panels and place them right sides together with your denim back panel. Sew the shoulder and side seams to form the jacket body.

  2. Press the seams open and topstitch along the seams for a classic denim look.


Step 4: Assemble and Attach the Hood

  1. Take your two hood pieces. Place them right sides together and sew along the curved top edge to form the hood.

  2. Now, pin the raw edge of the hood to the neckline of the jacket body, right sides together. Make sure the center of the hood is aligned with the center of the back of the neck.

  3. Sew the hood to the neckline. Finish the raw edge with a zigzag stitch or serger.


Step 5: Attach the Sleeves and Zipper

  1. Take one of your knit sleeve pieces. Place it on the armhole of the jacket body, right sides together. Pin the armhole seam. Ease the fabric as you go to fit the curve.

  2. Sew the sleeve to the jacket. Repeat for the other sleeve.

  3. Install the Zipper: This is the most challenging step. Lay the jacket flat and place your separating zipper along the front opening, teeth down. Pin one side of the zipper to one side of the jacket opening, from the bottom to the neckline.

  4. Using a zipper foot, sew the zipper to the jacket.

  5. Repeat for the other side of the zipper. Make sure you don't twist the zipper.

  6. For a clean finish, you can hand-sew a facing on the inside of the jacket to cover the zipper's raw edge.

Step 6: Final Touches

  1. Cut a strip of knit fabric or ribbed fabric for the bottom band of the jacket. Sew it into a tube and then attach it to the bottom of the jacket, sewing the raw edges together.

  2. Trim any excess threads and give your jacket a final press.



Your upcycled kids' denim jacket is now complete!

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A tote bag with outer pockets!



 Welcome! This is an incredibly practical and polished project that results in a versatile bag with a clean, structured design. It's perfect for carrying everything from daily essentials to market finds, with its spacious main compartment and handy outer pockets. This pattern is designed for an intermediate sewer who is comfortable with creating a multi-piece, structured bag.

Materials

  • Main Fabric: A heavy-duty, woven fabric like canvas, duck cloth, or twill (about 1 yard).

  • Handle/Contrasting Fabric: A contrasting, durable fabric for the handles and pocket flaps (about 1 yard of 1.5" wide webbing, or enough fabric to make your own handles).

  • Lining Fabric: A smooth, coordinating cotton or canvas (about 1 yard).

  • Fusible Interfacing: Heavy-weight fusible interfacing to give the bag a very firm structure (about 1 yard).

  • Thread: All-purpose thread that matches your fabric.

  • Snap or Button: A small snap, button, or hook-and-loop closure for the front pocket.

  • Tag or Label (Optional): A small fabric label or tag for a professional look.

  • Basic sewing supplies: Sewing machine, scissors, pins or clips, measuring tape, and an iron.


Key Concepts & Cutting Guide

This pattern is for a tote bag approximately 12 inches wide by 10 inches tall and 6 inches deep. The unique structure is created by the bottom gusset and side panels.

Cutting List:

  • Main Body (Outer Fabric): Cut one rectangle measuring 30" wide x 10" tall.

  • Lining Fabric: Cut one rectangle measuring 30" wide x 10" tall.

  • Interfacing: Cut one rectangle measuring 30" wide x 10" tall.

  • Side Panels (Outer Fabric): Cut two rectangles measuring 6" wide x 10" tall.

  • Side Panels (Lining Fabric): Cut two rectangles measuring 6" wide x 10" tall.

  • Side Panels (Interfacing): Cut two rectangles measuring 6" wide x 10" tall.

  • Side Pockets (Outer Fabric): Cut two rectangles measuring 6" wide x 8" tall.

  • Front Pocket (Outer Fabric): Cut one rectangle measuring 7" wide x 8" tall.

  • Pocket Flap (Outer Fabric): Cut one rectangle measuring 7" wide x 4" tall.

  • Handles: Cut two pieces of webbing, each 24" long.

Sewing Instructions

Note: Use a 1/2-inch seam allowance throughout the pattern unless otherwise noted.

Step 1: Prepare the Fabric and Cut the Pieces

  1. Press the heavy-weight interfacing onto the wrong side of your Main Body and Side Panel outer fabric pieces.

  2. If you are making your own handles, fold each Handle piece in half lengthwise and sew along the long edge. Turn them right side out and press them flat. Topstitch along both edges for a polished look.


Step 2: Create and Attach the Pockets

  1. Take your Front Pocket piece. Hem the top edge and press. Then, fold and press the side and bottom edges.

  2. Position the pocket at the center of the front of your main body piece. Pin it in place and sew along the pressed edges, leaving the top open.

  3. For the pocket flap, take your Pocket Flap piece. Round the bottom corners. Place it right sides together with a piece of lining fabric and sew around the sides and bottom, leaving the top open. Turn it right side out and topstitch. Sew the flap to the top of the pocket, and attach the snap or closure.

  4. For the Side Pockets, take your two pieces. Hem the top edge of each. Pin and sew them to the front of your side panels.


Step 3: Construct the Bag Body

  1. Take your main body piece (which now has the pockets and handles attached) and fold it in half, right sides together. Sew the side seams to form a tube.

  2. Take one of your side panels and pin it to the side opening of the main body, right sides together. Go slowly and use plenty of pins to get a smooth, even curve. Sew the side panel to the main body. Repeat for the other side panel.

  3. Repeat this entire process for the lining fabric, leaving a 4-inch opening in the bottom seam.


Step 4: Final Assembly

  1. Turn the main bag body right side out.

  2. Place the lining bag inside the main bag, with the wrong sides facing.

  3. Pin the lining to the top edge of the bag. You can either sew a single line of stitching around the top for a simple finish or hand-sew it down with a slip stitch.

  4. Reach into the opening you left in the bottom of the lining, and pull the bag through. Push out all the corners to create a sharp, structured shape.

  5. Hand-sew the opening in the lining closed with a slip stitch. Give the entire bag a final press with a cool iron to set the shape.

Your structured utility tote is now complete!

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How to make a tote bag


 Welcome! This is a beautiful and practical project that results in a sturdy, professional-looking tote bag. The zippered top adds security, and the boxed bottom gives the bag a structured shape, making it perfect for carrying books, groceries, or crafting supplies. This pattern is well-suited for an intermediate sewer who is comfortable with zipper installation and creating a bag with a defined bottom.


Materials

  • Main Fabric: A durable, woven fabric with a bold pattern like canvas or twill (about a half-yard).

  • Lining Fabric: A coordinating solid-colored cotton or canvas (about a half-yard).

  • Fusible Interfacing: Medium-weight interfacing to give the bag structure and body (about a half-yard).

  • Zipper: One 16-inch or longer bag zipper.

  • Handles: Two strips of durable webbing or fabric straps, each about 20 inches long.

  • Thread: All-purpose thread that matches your fabric.

  • Basic sewing supplies: Sewing machine, scissors, pins or clips, measuring tape, and an iron.

Key Concepts & Cutting Guide

This pattern is for a tote bag approximately 14 inches wide by 10 inches tall. The key to this design is creating a separate zippered top panel and a main body with boxed corners.

Cutting List:

  • Main Body (Outer Fabric): Cut two rectangles measuring 14" wide x 11" tall.

  • Main Body (Lining Fabric): Cut two rectangles measuring 14" wide x 11" tall.

  • Main Body (Interfacing): Cut two rectangles measuring 14" wide x 11" tall.

  • Zipper Panel (Outer Fabric): Cut two rectangles measuring 14" wide x 2" tall.

  • Zipper Panel (Lining Fabric): Cut two rectangles measuring 14" wide x 2" tall.

  • Handles: Two strips of webbing or fabric, each 20" long.

Sewing Instructions

Note: Use a 1/2-inch seam allowance throughout the pattern unless otherwise noted.

Step 1: Prepare the Fabric and Handles

  1. Press the interfacing onto the wrong side of your two Main Body (Outer Fabric) pieces.

  2. Take your two handles. Pin one handle to the center of the top of one of the Main Body (Outer Fabric) pieces, about 2 inches in from each side. Sew them securely in place using a box with an "X" inside it for extra strength. Repeat for the second handle and the other main body piece.


Step 2: Create the Zipper Panel

  1. Lay one of your Zipper Panel (Outer Fabric) pieces, right side up. Place your zipper, teeth up, along the top 14-inch edge.

  2. Lay one of your Zipper Panel (Lining Fabric) pieces on top, wrong side up, aligning the top edges. Pin all three layers.

  3. Using a zipper foot on your machine, sew a straight line along the edge.

  4. Fold the fabric pieces away from the zipper and press the seam. Topstitch along the seam.

  5. Repeat this process for the other side of the zipper, attaching the remaining two zipper panel pieces.

  6. You should now have a long strip with the zipper in the middle and outer fabric on one side and lining on the other.


Step 3: Construct the Bag Body and Lining

  1. Take your two Main Body (Outer Fabric) pieces. Place them right sides together and pin along the side and bottom edges. Sew along these three sides.

  2. To create the boxed corners, pinch the corners to form a triangle, aligning the side seam with the bottom seam. Measure about 2 inches from the corner point and sew a straight line across. Trim the excess fabric. Repeat for the other corner.

  3. Repeat this entire process for the lining fabric, but leave a 4-inch opening on the bottom seam for turning.

Step 4: Attach the Zipper Panel

  1. Find the center of the zipper panel at the top, and the center of the main body at the top.

  2. With the outer bag turned inside out, pin the zipper panel to the top opening of the bag, right sides together. Pin all the way around, aligning the side seams.

  3. Sew the zipper panel to the bag. Go slowly to ensure a smooth, secure seam.


Step 5: Final Assembly

  1. Turn the main bag body right side out.

  2. Now, take your lining bag, which is still inside out, and slip it inside the main bag.

  3. Pin the remaining free edge of the lining to the inside of the zipper seam, hiding all the raw edges.

  4. Carefully hand-sew the lining to the zipper seam with a slip stitch for an invisible and clean finish.

  5. Gently pull the bag through the opening you left in the bottom of the lining. Push out the corners and shape the bag. Hand-sew the opening in the lining closed.

Your structured floral zipper tote is now complete!

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DENIM BAG BY OWN HANDS

 



Welcome! This is an amazing project that results in a truly one-of-a-kind bag. By weaving strips of old denim, you create a unique, textured fabric that is incredibly durable and stylish. This pattern is designed for an intermediate to advanced sewer, as it requires patience and precision, but the final result is a beautiful and sustainable tote bag.


Materials

  • Denim Fabric: 3-4 pairs of old jeans in varying shades of blue. The variety of colors will create the checkerboard pattern seen in the image.

  • Lining Fabric: A sturdy cotton or canvas fabric (about 1 yard).

  • Top Band/Handle Fabric: A strip of faux leather, vinyl, or other durable material (about 1 yard long and 5 inches wide).

  • Thread: All-purpose thread that matches your denim and another that matches your top band fabric.

  • Basic sewing supplies: Sewing machine with a denim needle, scissors, pins or clips, a fabric pen or pencil, and a rotary cutter and mat (highly recommended for cutting even strips).

Key Concepts: Weaving and Construction

The main effort in this project goes into preparing and weaving the denim strips.

  • Strip Preparation: You need to create long, even strips of denim. Using a rotary cutter and a large cutting mat will save you a lot of time.

  • Weaving: You will create two large woven panels, one for the front and one for the back of the bag. A simple plain weave (over-under) is the easiest and most effective method.

Sewing Instructions

Note: Use a 1/2-inch seam allowance throughout the pattern unless otherwise noted.

Step 1: Prepare the Denim Strips

  1. Start by deconstructing your jeans. Cut off the legs and use a seam ripper to open the inseams. Lay the fabric flat.

  2. Trim off any thick seams. Using a rotary cutter and a ruler, cut the denim into long strips, each 1.5 inches wide. Cut as many as you can from each pair of jeans, separating them into piles by shade. You will need a lot of strips, so it's better to have too many than too few.

Step 2: Weave the Fabric Panels

  1. Clear a large, flat surface. Lay out a piece of old newspaper or fabric to protect your table.

  2. Lay a series of denim strips vertically, side by side. For a bag that is 14 inches wide, you'll need about 10-12 vertical strips.

  3. Now, begin weaving. Take a horizontal strip and weave it over and under the vertical strips. Push the strip up tightly against the one above it.

  4. Continue this process, alternating the over/under pattern, until you have a woven panel that measures approximately 16" wide x 16" tall.

  5. Repeat this process to create a second woven panel for the back of the bag.

Step 3: Stabilize the Woven Fabric

  1. This is a crucial step to prevent the weaving from unraveling. Once your woven panel is complete, take it to your sewing machine.

  2. Sew a zigzag stitch or a straight stitch around the entire perimeter of the woven panel, staying about 1/4 inch from the raw edges. This will hold all the strips in place.

  3. For extra security, you can also sew a line of stitches down the center of the panel, following one of the woven strips.


Step 4: Cut the Bag Pieces

  1. Place one of your stabilized woven panels on a flat surface. Using a ruler and fabric pen, mark out a rectangle that measures 14" wide x 14" tall. Cut out this piece. Repeat for the second panel.

  2. Cut your lining fabric into two rectangles that measure 14" wide x 14" tall.

  3. Cut your faux leather or vinyl into two long strips, each 2" wide and 20" long, for the handles.

  4. Cut two pieces of your top band fabric, each 28" long and 5" tall.


Step 5: Construct the Bag

  1. Take your two woven denim pieces. Place them right sides together and pin the side and bottom edges. Sew along the sides and bottom to form a bag.

  2. Repeat for the lining pieces, but leave a 4-inch opening at the bottom of one of the side seams.

  3. To create a flat bottom, box the corners of both the outer bag and the lining bag.


Step 6: Attach the Top Band and Handles

  1. Take your two handle pieces. Place them on top of one of your top band pieces, about 5 inches in from each side. Sew them securely in place using a box-and-X pattern.

  2. Pin the other top band piece on top, right sides together, and sew along the top and side seams.

  3. Turn the top band right side out and press it flat.

Step 7: Final Assembly

  1. Turn the main bag body right side out. Place the lining inside the main bag, with the wrong sides facing.

  2. Pin the top band to the top of the bag, aligning the seams. Sew the band to the bag.

  3. Reach into the opening you left in the lining, pull the bag through, and hand-sew the opening closed. Give the bag a final press with an iron.



Your woven denim tote bag is now complete!

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The Upcycled Denim Jean Bag

 

The Upcycled Denim Jean Bag: A Detailed DIY Sewing Pattern

Welcome! This is a fantastic upcycling project that takes an old pair of jeans and transforms them into a durable and stylish tote bag. It's an eco-friendly way to give new life to a piece you no longer wear. The pockets, belt loops, and zipper become built-in features, and you get a sturdy, one-of-a-kind bag perfect for groceries, books, or everyday errands.

This pattern is well-suited for a confident beginner who is comfortable with basic sewing techniques and working with thick denim fabric.


Materials

  • One Pair of Old Jeans: A pair of jeans that fits loosely around your hips is ideal, as this will give you a wider, more spacious bag.

  • Thread: All-purpose thread in a color that matches or contrasts with the denim (e.g., gold or white thread for a classic look).

  • Basic sewing supplies: Sewing machine with a strong needle (e.g., a denim needle), scissors, pins or clips, measuring tape, and a seam ripper.

Key Concepts: Deconstruction and Structure

The key to this project is to use the existing seams and structure of the jeans to your advantage, which minimizes the amount of new sewing required.

  • Deconstruction: You'll start by cutting the jeans and then carefully seam ripping to create the new shape.

  • Structure: The finished bag will use the original waistband as its top opening and the existing front and back panels as the bag's body.

Sewing Instructions

Note: Use a 1/2-inch seam allowance throughout the pattern unless otherwise noted.


Step 1: Deconstruct the Jeans

  1. Lay your jeans flat on your work surface.

  2. Using a sharp pair of scissors, cut the legs off of the jeans. The height of the bag will be determined by where you cut. A good starting point is to cut horizontally, about 10-12 inches down from the waistband.

  3. Carefully use a seam ripper to open the inseam (the seam that runs up the inside of the legs) and the crotch seam. You want to open them just enough so the front and back panels can lay flat.

  4. Turn the jeans inside out. The front and back panels are now separated, and the jeans look like a skirt that is open at the bottom.


Step 2: Create the Bag Shape

  1. To create the flat bottom of the bag, you will sew the front and back panels together. Pin the inseams together, wrong sides out. Sew a straight line across the bottom of the jeans to close the opening you created.

  2. To create the squared-off bottom seen in the image, you will box the corners. Lay the bag flat, with the side seams aligned with the bottom seam. This will create a small triangle at each corner.

  3. Decide how wide you want the bottom to be (e.g., 2 inches). Measure 1 inch from the corner point and draw a straight line. Sew across this line.

  4. Trim the excess fabric from the triangle. Repeat for the other side. Turn the bag right side out.


Step 3: Prepare and Attach the Handles

  1. Take the jean legs that you cut off in Step 1. Cut a seam open to create a flat piece of fabric.

  2. Cut two strips for your handles, each approximately 4 inches wide and 20 inches long.

  3. Fold each strip in half lengthwise and sew the long edges to create a tube. Turn them right side out and press them flat. Topstitch along both edges for a polished look.

  4. Place the bag on a flat surface. Position the ends of the handles about 4-5 inches in from the side seams, on both the front and back of the bag. Pin them in place.

  5. Sew the handles securely to the top of the bag. Sew a box with an "X" inside it at each handle attachment point for extra durability.

Step 4: Final Touches

  1. Reinforce the top edge of the bag (the waistband). You can sew an extra line of stitches just below the waistband to prevent stretching.

  2. Trim any loose threads. Give your bag a final press with an iron.

Your upcycled denim tote bag is now complete!

Video tutorial



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I CUT UP AN OLD JACKET AND MADE NEW FASHIONABLE SHOES!


 Welcome! This is a fantastic and creative project that perfectly marries sustainability with comfort. Transforming an old, puffy jacket into a unique and incredibly cozy pair of slippers is a clever way to upcycle. The pre-quilted panels of the jacket save you a significant amount of work and give the slippers a distinct, padded texture.

This pattern is designed for a confident beginner who is comfortable with working with thicker fabrics and has some experience with simple pattern making and hand finishing.


Materials

  • Puffy Jacket: A discarded puffy jacket or coat. A quilted style is ideal as it provides the perfect material.

  • Non-Slip Sole Fabric: A durable, non-slip fabric like gripper fabric or a piece of faux suede (about a quarter-yard).

  • Thread: All-purpose thread that matches your fabric.

  • Ribbon or Elastic Cord (Optional): A few feet of thin ribbon or elastic cord for the drawstring.

  • Cord Stopper (Optional): Two small cord stoppers.

  • Basic sewing supplies: Sewing machine, scissors, pins or clips, a fabric pen or pencil, and a hand-sewing needle.

Key Concepts & Pattern Making

The success of this project hinges on carefully deconstructing the jacket and using its existing structure.

  • Deconstruction: Before you begin, use a seam ripper to carefully remove the lining from the outer shell of the jacket. You want to work with the quilted panels without the lining, as you'll be using a new sole.

  • Pattern Making: Find an existing slipper or a shoe that fits you well and has a shape you like. Place it on a piece of paper and trace the bottom for your Sole Pattern Piece. For the Upper Pattern Piece, trace the top of your foot and create a shape that wraps around the sides and covers the top of your foot. You will likely need to create two pieces for the upper—a front piece and a back heel piece—for a better fit.

Sewing Instructions

Note: Use a 1/2-inch seam allowance throughout the pattern unless otherwise noted.

Step 1: Cut the Fabric Pieces

  1. Place your Sole Pattern Piece on the non-slip fabric. Cut out two soles, making sure they are mirror images of each other.

  2. Take your deconstructed jacket. Find the quilted panels and place your Sole Pattern Piece on the most pristine areas. Cut out two sole pieces from the quilted jacket.

  3. Now, place your Upper Pattern Pieces on the jacket panels and cut out the upper pieces for both slippers. You'll need two sets of mirror-image pieces for each slipper: one for the top and one for the heel area.


Step 2: Assemble the Slipper Uppers

  1. Take your top and heel pieces for one slipper. Pin them together along the curved edges, right sides together.

  2. Sew the pieces together to create the full slipper upper.

  3. Repeat for the second slipper.


Step 3: Attach the Sole and Upper

  1. Take one of your quilted jacket soles and one of your upper pieces. Pin the upper to the sole, right sides together. Start at the center of the toe and the center of the heel, and then pin the rest of the way around, easing the fabric as you go.

  2. Sew the upper to the sole. Go slowly, and use a strong machine stitch for durability. Repeat for the second slipper.

4: Finish the Slipper with Binding

  1. To create a clean finish and enclose the seams, you will bind the edges. Cut a long strip of your sole fabric or another coordinating fabric about 2 inches wide.

  2. Fold the strip in half lengthwise and press.

  3. Pin the binding to the bottom of the slipper, aligning the raw edges with the raw edges of the sole. Sew all the way around.

  4. Fold the binding over to the top of the sole and hand-sew it down with a slip stitch for an invisible finish. This will give you a clean seam, as seen in the blue slipper pattern.


Step 5: Add the Drawstring (Optional)

  1. To create the drawstring tunnel, cut a small, 1-inch wide strip of the jacket fabric or another coordinating fabric.

  2. Fold it in half and sew it to the inside of the slipper, along the top edge.

  3. Using a safety pin, thread your ribbon or elastic cord through the tunnel. Thread a cord stopper onto each end and tie a knot to secure it.



Your new, upcycled puffy jacket slippers are now complete!

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Cat Bag from old jacket - Sewing Tip

 


Welcome! This is a fantastic project that results in a spacious and stylish bag perfect for a weekend trip, a gym session, or as a carry-on. Making a quilted duffel bag allows you to create a one-of-a-kind accessory with a beautiful, textured finish. This pattern is designed for an intermediate to advanced sewer, as it involves working with multiple pieces and a long zipper.


Materials

  • Main Fabric: Durable fabric like canvas, duck cloth, or a thick cotton (about 2 yards, depending on the width).

  • Lining Fabric: A smooth, coordinating fabric like cotton or canvas (about 2 yards).

  • Batting: A thin piece of cotton or polyester batting (about 2 yards).

  • Zipper: One 24-inch or longer bag zipper.

  • Webbing or Strap Fabric: 3 to 4 yards of 1.5-inch wide webbing for the handles, or enough fabric to make your own.

  • Outer Pocket Fabric (Optional): A small piece of contrasting fabric for the pockets.

  • Thread: All-purpose thread that matches your fabric.

  • Basic sewing supplies: Sewing machine, scissors, pins or clips, a fabric pen or pencil, and an iron.

Key Concepts & Cutting Guide

This pattern is for a duffel bag approximately 20 inches long by 10 inches high. The key to this project is to create your quilted "fabric" first before cutting the final pieces.

  • Main Body: A single piece of fabric that wraps around the entire bag, from the front to the bottom to the back.

  • Side Panels: Two circular or oval pieces for the ends of the bag.

  • Handles & Pockets: Long straps and optional front pockets.

Cutting List:

  • Main Body: Cut one piece each of your main fabric, batting, and lining fabric, measuring 42" wide x 22" tall.

  • Side Panels: Cut two circles with a 10-inch diameter from your main fabric, batting, and lining.

  • Handles: Cut two pieces of webbing, each 40" long.

  • Outer Pocket (Optional): Cut one piece of contrasting fabric, measuring 10" wide x 8" tall.

Sewing Instructions

Note: Use a 1/2-inch seam allowance throughout the pattern unless otherwise noted.

Step 1: Create the Quilted Fabric

  1. Create a "quilt sandwich" by layering your Main Body pieces: lay the lining fabric wrong side up, then the batting, and finally the main fabric right side up.

  2. Pin the layers together, and use a ruler to draw a grid of straight lines across the fabric. A diagonal grid, as seen in the image, is a classic choice.

  3. Using your sewing machine, sew along all the drawn lines to secure the layers together. Repeat this process for the two Side Panels.


Step 2: Prepare the Handles and Pockets

  1. Handles: If you are using webbing, you can skip this step. If you are making fabric handles, take your two strap pieces. Fold each in half lengthwise, right sides together, and sew the long edges. Turn them right side out and press them flat. Topstitch along both edges for a polished look.

  2. Pockets (Optional): Take your Outer Pocket piece. Fold and hem the top edge. Fold the other three sides and press. Pin the pocket to the front of your quilted main body fabric (at the center), and sew along the pressed edges, leaving the top open. You can sew a vertical line down the middle of the pocket to create two separate compartments.


Step 3: Attach the Zipper

  1. Take your quilted Main Body piece. Find the center of the top 42-inch edge and cut it in half, creating two pieces measuring 21" x 22".

  2. Lay one of the quilted pieces right side up. Place your zipper, teeth up, along the 21-inch edge.

  3. Place the other quilted piece on top, right side down, aligning the 21-inch edge with the zipper. Pin all three layers.

  4. Using a zipper foot on your machine, sew a straight line along the edge.

  5. Fold the fabric pieces away from the zipper and press the seam. Topstitch along the zipper.


Step 4: Attach the Handles

  1. Lay your bag flat with the zipper at the top. Pin one handle to the front of the bag, about 4 inches in from the side seams. Pin the other end of the handle 4 inches in on the back of the bag. Baste the handles in place.

  2. Repeat for the other handle. Make sure they are not twisted.

Step 5: Assemble the Bag

  1. With the bag inside out and the zipper open, lay the bag flat. Pin the side seams together at the short ends and sew them closed.

  2. Now, to attach the side panels, mark the center points on the side of the bag and the side panels. Pin the quilted side panels to the main body of the bag, aligning the marks. Go slowly and use plenty of pins to get a smooth, even curve.

  3. Sew the side panels to the main body, being careful to not catch any extra fabric. Repeat for the other side.

  4. Finish all raw seams with a zigzag stitch or a serger to prevent fraying.

Step 6: Finish the Lining

  1. Take your un-quilted Lining Fabric pieces. Sew them together in the same way you sewed the outer bag: sew the side seams, and then attach the lining side panels. Leave a 4-inch opening in the bottom of one of the lining side seams.

  2. Insert the lining into the outer bag, wrong sides together. Pin the lining to the zipper seam. Hand-sew the lining to the zipper for a clean finish.

  3. Reach into the opening you left in the lining, pull the bag through, and hand-sew the opening closed.



Your quilted duffel bag is now complete!

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DIY Sewing Pattern

  Welcome! This is an incredibly practical and polished project that results in a versatile bag with a clean, structured design. It's pe...